New Year's Eve, Chiang Mai, Thailand

สวัสดีปีใหม่  (Sawatdee Pi Mai) or: Happy New Year!

Passing by a brightly lit temple around midnight, I was drawn by the chanting of many voices emanating from within the compound so I wandered over to see what was happening.  

It was rather disconcerting to see hundreds of worshippers sitting with white thread curled around the crown of their heads and joined to a latticed frame above.  Everyone was connected in this way: from the monks at the front, seated before a Buddha statue, to the worshippers seated both outside and inside the temple buildings.  The photos don't give the whole 'feel' of the Buat Chee Phruam ceremony - I wish I'd thought of filming a video clip.

People gather together and link themselves with white thread in order to allow the holy and auspicious prayers to better reach their soul and heart.  They believe they will receive good deeds and release inner strength in this way.  Apparently, sometimes cars and motorbikes are linked too thereby seeking safe travelling for the drivers.   

Soon after this, floating lanterns were lit and released into the night sky symbolising the bad sins of last year going away. The Diamond Grand Hotel with the jewel-like lanterns drifting above seemed appropriate.  At the same time, multiple fireworks were exploding across the city in colourful showers. And the booms reverberated loudly in all directions.  


With a few of my new friends here in Chiang Mai, I experienced a New Year's Eve which was different from those of previous years.  As with Christmas Day last week, it is somewhat strange to have high temperatures, sunny blue skies and yet see the seasonal decorations all around.

The King is so central to every aspect of life in Thailand that  pictures of him are prominently displayed among the decorations.

Celebrating the arrival of 2015 with friends was a joyful event and we expressed how blessed we felt to be in this welcoming city at this point in our life journeys.  I think we were the only 'farangs' (foreigners) in Star Avenue, but we made the effort to wear white, in line with Thai and Buddhist tradition, to indicate the casting off of the previous year and being pure for the new one.  

As we eat Thai cuisine so often, we took pot luck and tried out a new Mexican restaurant!! The food was delicious and filling, furthermore it was lovely to be able to eat outside in the warm air and watch the revellers passing by, whilst music boomed down to us from the party on the roof. 

9 Temples Walking Tour, Chiang Mai

To bless ourselves for the coming new year, I joined a walking tour group today to "do it the local's way" for the new year blessing. 

We visited 9 temples that purport to bring good things to your life. The number 9 is considered lucky in Thailand and the word gao (pronounced with a falling tone) means both '9' and 'progress' therefore it's perfect for those aspiring to achieve merit by taking this circuit of temples. 

Possibly Wat Chang Khong

En route to the first temple, we came upon a renovated temple which Tony, our guide, explained showed the traditional feature of a "Naga, swallowed by a dragon, swallowed by a snake" symmetrical sculpture at the entrance.  We also spotted the swan roof decorations.  

1. Wat Loy Kroh ( literally means "floating away bad luck"), for good health 

2. Wat Muen Lan ( literally means "trillion") for money 


The temple has a lot of Burmese influence in the architecture and statues - note the Burmese lion in front of the chedi.  This wooden temple has suffered a lot damage, especially from pigeons which have made their home there!  Reconstruction is taking place, with care being taken to keep the the original style.  

A single mirror mosaic naga decoration has been left on the building for renovators to copy. 

The bright red and gold colours of the library single this out as an important building within the temple grounds.

3. Wat Duang Dee ( literally means "good fortune") for good luck 


Lots of Buddha statues in his different forms ensure that supplications can be heard.

Even the ceiling has amazing details - look at the peacock!

The library

4. Wat Chiang Mun ( literally means "stable city") for stable life 


Constructed in 1296-97AD, this is the first royal temple built in Chiang Mai and is located on the site of the former palace.  There is also a stone, inscribed in 1581AD, recording the history of this temple and the city of Chiang Mai.

Photo by Peter Noyes

Correctly count the elephants for luck!

 The elephant-surrounded stupa is considered the most significant stupa in the temple grounds. 

5. Wat Chiang Yuen ( literally means "long live city") for long life 

This is one of the oldest temples in Chiang Mai; the kings came here to pay homage to Buddha in the vihara in order to gain good fortune in life.  

Buddha relics were enshrined in the stupa. If I remember the details correctly, women are allowed to enter the stupa because the sacred relics were buried underground!

The eye-catching golden Buddha and stupa spire watch over the approach to the temple.




6. Wat Mo Kham Tuang ( literally means "a pot of gold") for prosperity 


The photos don't adequately show the glittering "wall of silver" effect of the mirror mosaic design.

The pot of gold is protected by a coiled serpent.

Buddha's light shining through.

7. Wat Dap Phai ( literally means "extinguishing dangers") for safety 


My research also claims that this temple is for good health too.  Apparently Phraya A-Pai, a monk who was suffering an incurable sickness, prayed to a statue of the monk Dab-Pai and was instantly cured.  Phraya A-Pai subsequently renovated and renamed the temple in Dab-Pai's honour.

No idea why they wear glasses!

8. Wat Chai Phra Kiat ( literally means "victory and honor")  


The temple’s principal Buddha image is a large bronze statue in Lanna style named Chai Phra Kiat. It was cast in 1566 during the Burmese occupation of Chiang Mai. The inscription on the base tells about the history of the Chai Phra Kiat image in Thai, Mon and Burmese languages.

9. Wat Muen Ngern Kong (literally means "pile of ten thousand silver (money)") for wealth 

Since other translations of the name are "millionaire" and "riches", many local families sponsor this temple!!

My birth day fell on a Tuesday therefore the reclining Buddha is my symbol so I felt it was appropriate to end my tour of the 9 temples with the reclining statue here.  In the cool shade of the temple interior, I learnt that the significance of Buddha supporting his head on his right hand indicates resting, contemplating and being humble in life, and not rushing decisions.

As my photos show, the temples all feature beautiful Lanna arts and architecture as well as the odd, somewhat surprising, electronic blessings machines which contain recordings of monks giving appropriate (although somewhat 'tinny' sounding) benedictions.

By the end of the day, I cannot deny that I was quite tired after the tour of temples which had us criss-crossing Chiang Mai. But it was an incredibly interesting journey around the religious and cultural history of this city and I felt a sense of achievement and happiness, which has persisted - maybe the blessings are already at work!!  

Huay Tung Tao Lake, Chiang Mai, Thailand

Huay Tung Tao - courtesy of Google images

Had one of those 'awed by Nature' moments...

The scene: sitting barefoot on the platform of a pavilion, overhanging a lake, at dusk.  Wooded mountain slopes behind us began to rustle in the warm evening breeze and cicadas vibrated loudly in nearby grasses. Shadows darkened the edges of the water. It was a peaceful bit of relaxation.

In the otherwise stillness of the surface, we noticed a broad stick floating towards us, tilted at an angle. As it drew closer, the rippling body propelling the 'stick' could just be discerned in the gathering gloom.  At the precise moment that we realised it was a water snake, the creature halted, dipped its head for a few seconds before re-emerging and continuing in our direction.  Anyone who knows me well, will be aware of my absolute terror of snakes and will need little imagination to gauge my reaction at this point! Yet, the snake's undulating motion was mesmerising; the pale squiggles of its body appeared both powerful and somehow gentle as the surface of the water was only barely disturbed.

A few seconds later however, the reptile encountered some submerged obstruction which, thankfully, caused it to alter course.  Oh the relief!!!!  Until that point, in my fanciful head, I had been sure that the snake could sense my fear and was headed straight for me.  Yes, I know. It's NOT all about me and the snake probably couldn't have cared less about this particular mortal as it went about its evening business.  In the calm of hindsight (and a subsequent Google search), I discovered that the majority of water snakes in Thailand are not dangerous to humans. Phew!!  Still, the experience made for another unforgettable evening :-) although there's no photo souvenir of my own for this one :-(