Going Underground!

MRT, Singapore

As I’m about to wax lyrical about underground transport systems, some people might say my life is in a rut but I’m quite happy with what I’ve got!*

City planners have been facing increasing challenges of high volumes of commuters for decades, with no chance of these diminishing; accommodating more traffic on heavily congested roads simply cancelled itself as an option years ago.  In fact, as far back as the 1860s, the Victorians realized that going underground provided a perfect solution.  Thus, the London Underground became the world’s first metro system thereby setting the blueprint for others to follow.

 

MRT, Singapore

A century and a half later, underground transport systems are found in cities across the globe; they are a boon to regular commuters and tourists alike.  During my recent travels, the two which have impressed me the most are the Mass Rapid Transit (Singapore) and the MRT Metropolitan Rapid Transit (Bangkok). Both of these transport systems make the London Underground seem shabby, dirty and slow in comparison.  The contrast of MRT stations, which are smart, clean and offer frequent train services, is startling and pleasant. 

Airport Express queues, MRT Bangkok

What also sets this particular duo apart from other similar transport services that I’ve experienced over the years - in the UK, USA, Canada, France, Germany, Hong Kong and China - is the outstanding orderliness of commuters who queue in an organized fashion and wait until passengers have disembarked before boarding the trains. The high frequency of services means that people don’t barge or queue-jump; instead, reading books or using their smartphones, they wait patiently in lines. What a refreshing stress-free attitude! What a pleasure it has been to navigate these cities!

* Showing my age with blatant plagiarism of Paul Weller’s lyrics to Going Underground.

Melaka, Malaysia

Melaka (or Malacca) was the first stop on my tour of Malaysia.  It is a city of two halves, divided by the Melaka river: on one side is a fairly modern looking city with hotels, shopping malls and residential areas, whilst on the other is the historic old town - designated a World Heritage Site since 2008.

I stayed in the Aldy Hotel, just below St Paul’s Hill, as it is convenient for touring around the must-see sites of the old town.  Some parts I walked, others I rode in a trishaw.  I must say that the locals take the decoration of their trishaws to extremes. By day they are garishly festooned in bright pink and orange with flowers, hearts, cute pictures or cuddly toys, and large speakers blaring out rock and pop music!  By night they glow through the streets with ropes of fairy lights. Truly an unforgettable experience!

 

There are plenty of guides to the sightseeing attractions of Melaka but, for me, the following were my highlights (given only in random rather than specifically recommended order).

1.  St Paul’s Church, in ruins for over 150 years, stands on the site of the last sultan’s palace.  There are souvenir stalls outside the lichen-covered walls and, when I visited, an enthusiastic busker was playing a barely identifiable rendition of Mercury Blues as I gazed at the views across Melaka.

2.   Porta de Santiago, on the far side of the hill, is all that remains of the A’ Famosa Fort which housed and protected the Portuguese Administration in the 16^th century. 

3.   The Melaka River was criss-crossed with bunting and flags of various shapes a sizes hung from buildings, poles and railings just about everywhere I could see.  Although the sky was hazy on the first day, it was was the next and the ambient temperature can only be described as 'hot'.  

Wandering along the river, I caught a glimpse of a local fisherman sharing his meagre catch with a furry friend.

4.  Roundabout. I went out very early on the second day in order to take photos before the crowds arrived and the day grew warm.  In a car park on St Paul's Hill, I met some older folk who were just finishing their Tai Chi exercises.   They were keen to try out their English skills and eagerly asked whether I'd "...seen the accident?" and commented, "It's lucky the deer weren't damaged!"

Overnight, a young driver had crashed his new car into the roundabout, and it had become an attraction for the locals and tourists alike who were gathering to take photos.  Mousedeer are a part of the founding story of the city and even feature on the Melakan coat of arms, so it follows that statues of them would be placed on the roundabout in the old town.  Fortunately, the wrecked auto had indeed narrowly avoided hitting the deer, thereby averting dire consequences for the driver, the inhabitants and the city itself - to go by the mutterings of onlookers! 

5.  Dutch Heritage buildings are easily recognised by the terracotta red! The Stadhuys is thought to be the oldest surviving Dutch building here.

6.  Christ Church, Clock Tower and Fountain. On Jalan Gereja, opposite the Stadhuys, Christ Church was built by the Dutch to mark a centenary of occupation. I really liked the angle of the morning sunlight slanting along the cross and bell.  

The marble fountain, built in 1904, commemorates Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee.

The Clock Tower certainly has a Dutch style to it but was actually erected, in 1886, by a wealthy local Chinese family in honour of Tan Beng Swee, a successful Chinese merchant.  Having seen so many clock towers honouring Queen Victoria, it was good to see one dedicated to a worthy local!

7. Jonker Walk is a busy street with many antique shops, restaurants and clothes shops by day.  During the Night Market, it bustles with a multitude of stalls offering the usual bags, clothes, toys, crafts, household goods and, of course, FOOD.  I spent hours wandering with the buzzing crowds, snagging bargains and sampling all sorts of interesting, tasty morsels.

8. The Maritime Museum is housed in a replica of the Portuguese ship Flora de la Mar. It has interesting exhibits and a shares the maritime and political history of Melaka in very engaging ways.  Audio guides are available but the display information is more than enough to satisfy a curious visitor! 

9.  The Hang Jebat Mausoleum - is claimed to be the resting place of a 15th century high-ranking Malay warrior.  According to legend, Hang Jebat earned the wrath of the Sultan after defending his friend Hang Tuah. It's an interesting story of loyalty and honour. http://www.orientalarchitecture.com/malaysia/melaka/hangjebat.php

10.  Kampung Keling Mosque and Cheng Hung Temple.  The temples and mosques are not only testament to Melaka's religious heritage but are busy places.  Locals come here to worship and tourists are generally appropriately respectful of the relevant practices.

Since its founding in the late 1300s by the last Rajah of Singapura, Parameswara, Melaka has had a rich and varied history; from what was once a tiny fishing village, international trade and prosperity grew. According to some sources, Parameswara was the first Malay prince to become a muslim, whilst other historical records claim the conversion came with his son or grandson. Whatever the case, it was the Malaccan sultanate that provided the basis for what became the country’s political system, with Islam remaining the State religion to this day.

The successful port established booming trade links with China, Burma, India, Java and Arabia.  Its strategic location at the narrowest part of the Malacca Straits eventually brought it under the acquisitive spyglass of the European nations.  In 1511, it was conquered by the Portuguese who ruled until the Dutch captured it in 1641. The Anglo-Dutch Treaty of 1824, ceded the port to the British Empire. Unfortunately, the European administrations disrupted Melaka’s domination of Asian and international trade so badly that other trading centres flourished resulting in its gradual decline.  Over time, the river silted up and could no longer accommodate large trading vessels.