Chemin des Dames, France

The long drive through northeastern France is actually very pleasant as the autoroute has good service areas.  Some are just picnic areas, others are service stations with fuel and food outlets.  AND there are great restrooms - a fact the traveller needs to know!

As we headed along the Chemin des Dames (named in the 18th Century for Louis XV's two daughters who frequently travelled along that route), I learnt more from my friend about the WWI battles in the surrounding countryside. Driving through that picturesque scenery, I began to imagine the war torn land as it probably had been.  Having only recently been viewing old photos and reading extracts from that time, the scenes came to mind quite easily but it was hard to 'overlay' them on the lush land around us.

Flyer for Tommies on the Aisne exhibition

Along the way we decided to visit an exhibition called Tommies on the Aisne 1914 at the Caverne du Dragon museum. Running until December 2014, the it tells the story of the BEF's involvement with its French allies.  One has to admire those exhausted soldiers who, under shellfire, crossed the River Aisne to the northern bank where they established a bridgehead "... and then climbed the steep ridges of the Chemin des Dames...". It was here that the first trenches of the Western Front were dug during the Battle of the Aisne in September 1914.  I defy anyone not to feel moved if they spend time viewing the exhibits, but I also found it fascinating and would highly recommend a visit there.

Outside there are large relief maps of the local area with the French, BEF and German positions marked, along with their respective trench lines. Standing on the ridge, with the sun shining and birdsong reaching us over the soft breeze, one couldn't help but appreciate the marked contrast with what the scene would have been.